Criollas by Chef Florencia Cusumano
- Florencia Cusumano
- Feb 2
- 3 min read
How I developed a new pastry menu for one of the best argentinian empanadas shops in NYC.
I met Mario Vivas, Criollas Baked Owner, many years ago in NYC. But it was in early 2025 that he asked me to develop new products for Criollas. As a Chef, I found that one of the most exciting and passionate tasks for me is to create and innovate every time I have the chance. That's why I came up with ideas that would link Argentina's beautiful ingredients with NYC culture and interest.
ARGENTINA IS IN THE HOUSE!
One of the first ingredients that came to my mind was yerba mate. There're mixed opinions about this ingredient even between argentinians! We tipically drink an ifusion made with it, simply called "Mate" that we prepare in a "Mate" -Yes, we call it the same way-. Some drink it bitter, some sweet, some like it hot, some like it cold. We also drink "Mate Cocido" which is pretty similar but in a tea bag! But what's really important about mate is its cultural meaning. Mate means spending time with other people sharing it all together. Mate means a company for any ocassion and time of the day. It's a natural energizer, it contains caffeine, so most argentinians are used to drink it every day, all over the country. Don't be surprised to find people in the parks with it, even in the street walking with a thermos in one hand and mate in the other. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold outside, mate is always drank.
All that being said, I thought Yerba Mate used in a Cookie would be one of the most approachable's ways to get NYC people to meet this ingredient, and that's how I came up with this GF cookie with a bold Yerba Mate flavor but mixed with almonds and white chocolate to enrich its flavor.
Did you know that argentinian's are obsessed with Alfajores? Probably you've heard about them by now, but if you haven't... Alfajores, simply explained, are two "cookies" normally filled with dulce de leche, and covered with chocolate. However, there's as many kinds of alfajores as regions in Argentina. Nowadays you will find hundreds of combinations that will make unique alfajores.
Some people consider this argentinian treat to be too sweet, at least that happens everytime you share an alfajor with a non-argentinian. That's why I thought of this combination for NYC that couldn't go wrong: Pistachio cookie, filled with dulce de leche and dark cocoa with a center of raspberry. I must say, it can be described as "Pure Magic".
Dulce de leche, one of Argentina's typical spreadables. The popular legend says that Juan Manuel de Rosas maid, was preparing hot milk with sugar and she forgot it in a low flame for so long that made the sugars caramelized and thicken the preparation and created for the first time in 1829 out wonderful dulce de leche. We don't really know if this is true, but what we do know is that Dulce de leche is considered Argentina's Cultural Heritage and every October 11th we celebrate its day!
I incorporated Dulce de Leche as a main ingredient of one of the cookies among with dark chocolate chips to lessen its sweetness and it ended up in this amazing cookie:
Chipa is a traditional Guaraní cheese bread, naturally Gluten Free, made with tapioca flour. It evolved from a mix of tapioca flour and water, to a cheese bread with the Spanish colonization, introducing ingredients as cheese, eggs and milk. Nowadays it's a symbol of Northeast argentinian Cuisine, but it has spreaded all over the country, and it's a delight. I must say this is one of the greatest companion of the Mate.
In this case I only added the jalapeño to it to bring some spicy, which is not typical in Argentina, but a great combination for the local people who enjoy this perfect match!
If you want a taste of this products and the best empanadas in NYC please go to Criollas (Turnstyle Undeground Market- 1000S 8th Ave NY, 10019)
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